Custom Apparel That Actually Fits: Sizing for Women in Trades

Women's Cotton Stretch Pique Polo - The Frank Doolittle Company

Ask a lot of tradeswomen about their union apparel and you’ll hear a version of the same complaint: the gear exists, but it fits like it was designed for someone else’s body and handed over as-is. A men’s small worn by someone who doesn’t have a men’s build isn’t a fit, it’s a workaround. Here’s what actually changes when apparel is sized for the person wearing it instead of assumed by default.

“Unisex” usually means “men’s, relabeled”

Most apparel marketed as unisex is built on a men’s block pattern — straight body, dropped shoulder seams, longer torso — just offered in a range of sizes. Sizing down doesn’t fix the shape; it just makes a men’s cut smaller, which tends to create excess fabric at the shoulders and hips while still running short or tight somewhere else. A genuinely women’s-fit garment changes the pattern itself: a tapered waist, a shorter torso-to-shoulder ratio, and a shoulder seam that actually sits on the shoulder.

Where fit actually affects safety, not just comfort

For apparel worn on a jobsite — outerwear, safety layers, anything under a harness or tool belt — a poor fit isn’t just an appearance issue. Excess fabric at the wrist or waist can catch on equipment; a jacket that’s too long can bunch under a harness; sleeves cut for a longer men’s arm can bind movement or hang past the hand. Getting the fit right on these pieces is a safety question as much as a comfort one.

Offering both isn’t the same as defaulting to one

The practical fix for a local ordering apparel for a mixed membership isn’t choosing one fit for everyone — it’s offering both a standard and a women’s-specific cut for the same design, and asking at order time rather than assuming. That usually means a small amount of extra coordination on the order form, not a fundamentally different product or a higher price.

Sizing charts lie if you use the wrong one

A common mistake is applying a men’s sizing chart to a women’s-cut garment, which produces a fit that’s off even when the right style was ordered. Always check that the size chart your members are measuring against matches the actual cut they’re ordering — a women’s medium and a men’s medium are not built from the same numbers.

If your local’s current apparel order doesn’t include this option

It’s a reasonable thing to ask for on your next order, not a special request that needs justifying. If you’re not sure which of your current product lines offer a women’s-specific cut, ask us directly — we’ll tell you plainly which styles do and which don’t, rather than let “unisex” stand in for an answer.

The Story Behind Challenge Coins: From Military Tradition to Union Pride

Custom union-made challenge coins made in the USA - The Frank Doolittle Company

Walk into almost any union hall and you’ll find them — a jar, a display case, or a steward’s pocket holding a handful of heavy metal coins stamped with a local’s number, crest, or motto. Challenge coins have become a fixture of labor culture, but the tradition didn’t start there. Here’s where it came from, and why it fits union life so well.

A military tradition, adopted widely

The most commonly told origin story traces challenge coins to American pilots in World War I, who had bronze medallions struck with their squadron’s emblem. One pilot’s coin reportedly saved him from execution behind enemy lines when it proved his identity as an Allied airman. Whether or not every detail of that story holds up, the practice stuck: by World War II and through Korea and Vietnam, military units used coins to mark service, unit pride, and shared hardship.

The custom that gave the coins their name is the “coin check”: if a member is challenged and can’t produce their unit’s coin, tradition says they buy the next round. Produce it, and the challenger buys instead. It’s a small ritual, but it does real work — it gives people a reason to carry a physical reminder of who they stand with.

Why the tradition transferred so cleanly to unions

Local unions and military units have more in common than they might seem to at first: both are built on membership earned through commitment, both mark milestones collectively rather than individually, and both rely on symbols that are recognized instantly by people inside the group and meaningless to people outside it. A challenge coin does that job without needing a single word of explanation to another member.

Locals have picked up the tradition for a wide range of occasions: anniversary years (25th, 50th, 100th charters), apprenticeship graduations, retirements, strike anniversaries, and as a keepsake handed out at conventions. Some locals strike a standard coin that every new member receives; others commission a new design for each major event.

What goes into a good union challenge coin design

The coins that get kept — not tossed in a drawer — tend to share a few things: a strong, simple central emblem (an IBEW flash, a Boilermakers crest, a local’s own hand-drawn logo), the local number and city or region, and a short motto or founding year on the reverse. Dimensional detail (raised lettering, cutout shapes, translucent enamel) reads better in person than flat print, which is part of why metal stamping is worth the extra step over a printed medallion.

Union-made, if it matters to your local

As with apparel, challenge coins can be produced union-made in the USA or simply USA-made, depending on the shop that strikes them — it’s worth asking your supplier directly which applies before you order, the same way you would for a run of t-shirts. We design every coin’s artwork in-house at no charge through our own union artists, and we’ll tell you plainly whether the striking itself is union or non-union USA work for the option you choose.

If your local is coming up on a charter anniversary, a graduating apprenticeship class, or just wants something better than a lapel pin for new members, a challenge coin is worth the conversation.